Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
